Eating my way through Tokyo's back alleys

Tiny counters, handwritten menus and the best skewers I've ever had.

I came to Japan with a loose plan and a long list. By the end, the list mattered less than the small moments in between — a conversation at a train station, a meal I didn't expect, a view I almost skipped.

Markets were my classroom here. I asked what was in season, pointed a lot, and ate far too well. The food around kyoto's temple lanes is worth the trip alone.

If you are planning your own trip, my advice is simple: give each place more time than you think you need. Japan is best in spring and autumn, but every season has its own reasons to visit.

Pack light, carry a reusable water bottle, and leave space in the day for things you can't plan. That's where most of my favorite memories came from.