My first morning in Kyoto

I set my alarm for 5 a.m. and walked to the temples before the crowds. It was the best decision of the trip.

I came to Japan with a loose plan and a long list. By the end, the list mattered less than the small moments in between — a conversation at a train station, a meal I didn't expect, a view I almost skipped.

The highlight for me was kyoto's temple lanes. Go early if you can; the light is softer and the paths are quiet. After that, hot-spring towns in the mountains made a perfect slow afternoon.

If you are planning your own trip, my advice is simple: give each place more time than you think you need. Japan is best in spring and autumn, but every season has its own reasons to visit.

Pack light, carry a reusable water bottle, and leave space in the day for things you can't plan. That's where most of my favorite memories came from.