Pho before sunrise

Why the best bowl of soup in Hanoi is the one you eat at 6 a.m.

I came to Vietnam with a loose plan and a long list. By the end, the list mattered less than the small moments in between — a conversation at a train station, a meal I didn't expect, a view I almost skipped.

Markets were my classroom here. I asked what was in season, pointed a lot, and ate far too well. The food around karst bays in the north is worth the trip alone.

If you are planning your own trip, my advice is simple: give each place more time than you think you need. Vietnam is best in varies by region; spring is pleasant across most of the country, but every season has its own reasons to visit.

Pack light, carry a reusable water bottle, and leave space in the day for things you can't plan. That's where most of my favorite memories came from.