Paddling between limestone towers

A day in a kayak, a sea cave and a lot of silence.

I came to Vietnam with a loose plan and a long list. By the end, the list mattered less than the small moments in between — a conversation at a train station, a meal I didn't expect, a view I almost skipped.

The highlight for me was karst bays in the north. Go early if you can; the light is softer and the paths are quiet. After that, hoi an's lantern-lit old town made a perfect slow afternoon.

If you are planning your own trip, my advice is simple: give each place more time than you think you need. Vietnam is best in varies by region; spring is pleasant across most of the country, but every season has its own reasons to visit.

Pack light, carry a reusable water bottle, and leave space in the day for things you can't plan. That's where most of my favorite memories came from.