Why Lima is a food city first

Ceviche at lunch, market fruit and a tasting menu worth saving for.

I came to Peru with a loose plan and a long list. By the end, the list mattered less than the small moments in between — a conversation at a train station, a meal I didn't expect, a view I almost skipped.

Markets were my classroom here. I asked what was in season, pointed a lot, and ate far too well. The food around ancient terraces in the sacred valley is worth the trip alone.

If you are planning your own trip, my advice is simple: give each place more time than you think you need. Peru is best in may to september in the andes, but every season has its own reasons to visit.

Pack light, carry a reusable water bottle, and leave space in the day for things you can't plan. That's where most of my favorite memories came from.