Chasing the northern lights

Four cold nights, three cloudy skies and one unforgettable one.

I came to Iceland with a loose plan and a long list. By the end, the list mattered less than the small moments in between — a conversation at a train station, a meal I didn't expect, a view I almost skipped.

The highlight for me was the south coast waterfalls. Go early if you can; the light is softer and the paths are quiet. After that, glacier lagoons made a perfect slow afternoon.

If you are planning your own trip, my advice is simple: give each place more time than you think you need. Iceland is best in summer for long days; winter for northern lights, but every season has its own reasons to visit.

Pack light, carry a reusable water bottle, and leave space in the day for things you can't plan. That's where most of my favorite memories came from.